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TechnicalLee
Приєднався 20 гру 2011
How to Unclog a Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve
If your washing machine fills slowly, your water inlet valve might be clogged with sand. You need to clean the inlet screens. In this video, I detail a hidden screen that I haven't seen talked about anywhere else before, and flow test the valve. Each side of the valve should flow about 2.0 GPM. This particular valve is Whirlpool Part #W11210459 if you need to replace it.
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Відео
Whirlpool Manual Test Mode - WTW5000DW
Переглядів 302 тис.3 роки тому
Using manual test mode to manually control a wash cycle step by step! The whole cycle only took about 20 minutes. Directions can be found online via Google search by searching the title of this video.
How a Honeywell 2-Stage Gas Valve Operates
Переглядів 10 тис.4 роки тому
Quick video showing the functionality of a Honeywell VR9205Q 2-stage gas valve. Low stage must operate first to open the valve, and high stage adds extra gas pressure.
How to Add an External 24V Thermostat to an Electric Garage Heater
Переглядів 53 тис.4 роки тому
This video shows how to add a standard low voltage thermostat to a typical electric garage heater. Model shown: ProFusion EH-4604B 7500W Required parts are shown in the video.
Ford Escape - How to Find a Fuse to Power a Rear Dashcam
Переглядів 11 тис.5 років тому
Describes methods using a test light to find a fuse that is only powered with the ignition on suitable for use with a rear dashcam. The vehicle in the video is a 2017 Ford Escape.
Whirlpool Washer Loud clicking noise at end of spin cycle
Переглядів 268 тис.5 років тому
Skip to 1:15 and 3:04 to hear the noise. Model # WTW5000DW1. The noise is very loud and can be heard though the whole house. It happens at the end of the spin cycle during dynamic braking of the drum. In the second clip, you can see the shift actuator arm move, and that there is some feedback into the arm when the clicking occurs. I replaced the splutch, and that seems to have almost completely...
Furnace sucks in?!
Переглядів 5436 років тому
Frigidaire (Nordyne) two-stage furnace. Flame ignites normally, blower starts, inducer switches to lower speed, then a few seconds later there is a sudden suction in the burner compartment (1:03), gas valve clunks closed, inducer switches to high speed, and cycle repeats. What's wrong?
How a Refrigerator Defrost Timer Works
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Inside view of a live, running mechanical defrost timer from a GE refrigerator.
Autolite 4100 - How to adjust the choke
Переглядів 37 тис.7 років тому
I explain the proper procedure for setting the choke adjustments on an Autolite 4100.
Autolite 4100 - What all the holes do
Переглядів 12 тис.7 років тому
Description of what all the holes/passages on a Autolite 4100 carburetor are for if you curious or are rebuilding one.
Ford Fusion Horn Upgrades
Переглядів 30 тис.8 років тому
Decided to upgrade the horns on my 2010 Ford Fusion. The two in front of the radiator are Fiaam Freeway Blaster horns, and the air horn was a kit off Amazon.com that includes dual compressors.
Tried the calibration, door lock light is not coming on at all??? Any suggestions
Where did you print the service manual from? I’ve been trying to look for it and cant seem to find it online
The problem I have with this model is that it won't fill up with water! It feels up a quarter of the way no matter what setting its on...
needhelp ...when filing machine has click sound about every 40 seconds ...has not done before 74yr old gal living alone need help if this is an issue I need to address
Are you on drugs?
I change the hub and still make noise banging jump around the drum have lots of play side to side
What happens if I just decide to do nothing and live with it? Is something being damaged that will eventually fail, or is it just the annoying noise?
Bough this exact washer and hate it.
Sequence,i tried it i am feeling down i cant seem to get it right
I am Struggling to use mine its 3 days now,am i that Dumb😂😂😂
Dude, did you see the PLASTIC SPOON clearly present in your machine??? LOL.
There's no spoon, you're probably seeing the rounded cap in the center of the wash plate.
sad how soon these machines die....
I⁹😅a 😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
My machine is stuck on Locked. Ran the tests ok, but try to do a wash and Locked light comes on, can’t do a wash. Any way to get around this without buying a new machine?
i have been bitching all over the internet on where you find the service tech manual for these washer manuals and your links in the description finally led me to ManualsLib and I got the pdf. they tried to make me sign up, but was able to get it without that. too bad these sites want your email CC # or all other kinds of info I am not going to give. if they would make it easy to throw some anonymous money, I would do that. thank you for the video and even more the tip to service manual !!!
' i just printed out the service information, you can find this online.... ' 2:14 WHERE WHERE WHERE ?!?!?!?
Replaced the splutch on my whirlpool WTW5000DW1 and can confirm it did not completely resolve the loud clicking on spindown cycles illustrated in this video. I then tried taking 1/16th off the end of the pulley as some suggested. The first round, even though I measured it perfect, I guess I shaved off too much as I heard horrible grinding as soon as the agitation cycle started. I then tried only 1/24th (or somewhere less than 1/16th) on another spare pulley I had . That seemed to help the clicking a decent amount. I still hear it at the very end of the cycle, but I was hearing it all throughout the cycle before so I think it helped. Maybe the gearbox or something else needs to be replaced. The washer works fine other than this annoyance and has made these clicking and popping noises when it shifts since I got it I believe. Poor design I guess. 🤷 Will keep an eye on the comments over time on this video and see if someone discovers the magic fix. One thing for sure I'm now an expert at changing splutches yay.
How to use the soak pls
Man, you were going along better than another guy whom I just watched UNTIL you got to the point where you did about five dial clicks while covering what you were doing with your arm! I think it was R>L>L>L>R. Guess I'll find out soon enough. Yeah, these functions, and their access stink, big time! Wish I still had my 28 yr. old Whirlpool which I maintained from the day I bought it. Easy, until the motor finally was fried. Replacement motor cost as much as the new unit I just got. The longer I watched this video, the more I resolved to get my own Service Manual, as it's obvious that you're not totally up on the complicated procedures, not that I blame you.
Thank you for this upload! My machine wouldnt let me wash auto or go in calibration mode, so gave my better half peace of mind i can at least get clothes washed.
I cannot find the test sheet nowhere on line!!! If you have a link please send it to me! Search engines suck!
My whirlpool stuck in drain. Repowered still same, tried knob sequence , same, no lights.
Hi
Sir may I ask you how do you energize Low and High , My Goodman has 36G54-238 two stage ( HI C M)I do know I need to adjust after valve replaced, instruction show must need to energize M (Low) first, then Hi, much appreciated if you can give me info
I don’t have two stage thermostat!
You would use W1 and W2 terminals on the furnace control board. Jump R to W1 for low stage and jump R to W2 for high stage.
I appreciate for replying, but 3:00 On my control board I only see YWRGC only ! Can I just unplug gas valve connector, then use jumper wires to energize Low and High? Much appreciated
This was incredibly helpful as I needed to get the agitation plate off. So I needed just the agitation mode
where did you get the wall bracket for your heater , mine did not come with one Thanks
Mine seems to make a faster clicking like it's actuator or something. Happens when there is 6 minutes left and spinning. You have to shut it off to get it to stop and then it goes off again until you unplug it. Pipes rattle big time in the spin cycle. Only way to stop it is to turn the water valves off. Something isnt right lol.
Dude...this is the best video!!!...how the heck in any way do they call these energy wise???..every cycle runs for an hour, and fills that BIG ol tub up to the top to the tippy top several times!!! And the water runs almost as much as the machine !!...Sir,you've made my day!!! Thank you!!!
What if I DO NOT FIX THIS? Am I ruining something??
the codes on the right hand of the sheet are simple binary numbers using the lights. (locked and sensing lights are not used for the code) From left to right: wash(8),rinse(4),spin(2),done(1). With all lights off, press start to toggle lock/unlock. if lock is required, set it before entering a code. some codes require lock and some do not. lights add up to the code value for example: drain requires lock and is 7, so that's 4+2+1 (rinse spin done with lock on) low spin is lock code 9, that's 8 + 1 (wash done with lock on) etc this way if you know the code, you dont have to remember all the lights to set. just make them add up to the code and press start. hope this is helpful. good luck!
I can’t get my lid to unlock at all. It’s very frustrating.
I use this on a lot of washing machines made by whirpool to see what keeps happening to them
exact same problem thanks for your help.
thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!working on one right now, driver side idle screw has no effect on idle when closed,i believe its the air bleed as I can blow through the screw hole w carb spray and it comes out the idle hole in the venturi.
This washer is absolute crap.
All the clicking is normal that’s just actuator processes to stop drum.
What happened when is plug, the motor turn on but the lights don’t?
Thanks for the video. Just trying to find install literature to ensure I have the right tools to replace. You confirmed what I assumed regarding the monometer hookup locations which is the last piece of my puzzle. Thanks for the brief tour of this unnecessarily complicated widget.
Imagine that the washer runs warm water it did a good job running warm water ty
This is what happens when we get in bed with china. CHeap ass parts and washers. All the old american shit is way better.
My Whirlpool washer WTW5000DW3 Is going out of balance and shakes like it will break (hard). I went on the internet and replace the four balancing springs. Did not work. I replaced the Mounting hub with an all new metal version W10324651-BA. Did not work. Two things I have noticed 1. washer fills tub half way like normal but on a quick wash setting so, the clothes are wetter when they are drained. It also seams like on quick wash it does 2 washes, 2 rinses, and 2 spins? And 2. the tub is not out of balance when I set to drain and spin only (tub stays balanced). WHAT COULD IT BE??? HELP??
Great explanation, and we'll do something similar. It might have been helpful to just have a simple circuit diagram sketch to give the general lay-out. But, that's a fine point.
Excellent tutorial!
Excellent video man. Thank you
good vid.
Welling motor
I have a 90% furnace and it hasn't been used since last year. Several months ago I installed a Nest thermostat and when I tried to turn the heat on the furnace would not kick on. The ignitor comes on but burners dont come on. I have a 2 stage gas valve in the furnace. Is there a jumper or some other setting for the TS?
I have the same problem. Were you able to figure it out?
When I do the Right, Right, right, left, right no lights come on at all. Any tips ? Literally nothing comes on, we had a storm and the power went out when there was a load in it
L R R R L R - to enter into diag mode. Not checked if important, but start from 12 clock position. Works for me.
The technician manual is no longer the first search on google. You wouldnt have a link to it by any chance ?
It is now the second result on Google.
Hope this helps. In the comments below, someone mentioned cutting 1/16th of an inch off of the long shaft side of the pully. This decreases the gap due to the transmission shaft falling due to age/usage. Once I did this and reassembled, the noise was almost gone and much quieter. So, belt pully not motor pully, long side of shaft metal insert and plastic, cut 1/16th. If a new splutch piece does not fix the issue in my case it was a no go, the cutting off of the 1\16th of an inch, seems to have quieted it down and allows the dynamic breaking to catch the teeth properly.
Just to be clear, you're talking about grinding down the inside face on the splined metal insert of the transmission pulley? What type of tool did you use?
I'll give this a try and post my findings
I did this on the first replacement splutch. Made sure it was 1/16th inch. Heard horrible grinding as soon as agitation cycle start as I assume teeth were too close. I took just a hair off another spare splutch I had but did hear any difference on the loud clicking during braking. Was thinking of maybe getting another splutch and taking 1/32 off or just shy of 1/16. Can you PM me? I want to make sure I'm removing the right portion of the pulley.